Robbed

7.25.2007

Griff and I were robbed last night. In our hotel room. At 1:30 in the morning. We had been reading and talking and did that whole, I´ll brush my teeth after I close my eyes for just one minute...¨So we fell asleep. With our lights on. And our door unlocked.

We awoke to the sound of several knocks on the door. There are electrical lights outside the window, so its hard to tell the time. In my groggy state, I thought we had overslept and they were telling us that we needed to check out of the hotel. Griff thought it was 9:30 in the morning.

I opened the door and a man was panting and leaning over. Do you speak English? Yeah? Good. Americans? I´m from California. Yeah. Listen, I lost my credit cards and there´s a big emergency at home. I need to call. I need to call home. The hotel owner won´t give me nothing. If you could just give me 50 Q. I´m in room 12. 50Q and I´ll pay you back tomorrow. Agitated, he wrote his name and hotel number down.

I thought about shutting the door, but as he was talking he had moved pretty close and I didn´t want to provoke him.

Griff got out of bed and handed him 100 Q because we didn´t have a 50.

He left, promising to pay us back tomorrow.

¨That was freaky,¨I told Griff. On the back of the piece of paper he had handed us was a hodgepodge of photocopied images. Tourists, devils, 666, and pornographic pictures.

We locked our door and tried to sleep. But the guy had seen our room and we thought he might have scoped it out to come back with others. It wouldn´t be hard to pick the lock, and because the hotel opens onto a courtyard, there is a large window next to the door. Griff went to the bathroom and there was a ton of noise outside the room. He came back to the room with beer bottles and two long bamboo sticks. Which, in case you are wondering, are not very effective against people with knives and guns. Bamboo sticks are the weapons you get demoted to in action games. Its below the fist but slightly above the wet noodle. They looked menacing that night but ridiculous the next morning. Griff said we could have poked them in an attempt to annoy them to death.

We tried to sleep, but as Griff put it, ¨I keep waking up every time a bird chirps. They shouldn´t be chirping at this time. Grab the beer bottle of safety, he´s coming back with his friends.¨

The next morning, waiting for the bathroom, I told another guest our story. He´s a Guatemalan who does business in the area often and always stays at this hotel. (Labelled in Lonely Planet as ¨secure.¨)
¨I think he saw you,¨he said, pointing at me. ¨I think he followed you.¨Griff suspected the same thing. The robber seemed to get very nervous when he saw a big guy in the room. At least, a big guy by Guatemalan standards. I had been walking around by myself for part of the day, and had entered our hotel room alone. So if he had followed me, as the Guatemalan business man suspected, he could have easily assumed that it was just me in the room. As Griff put it,¨Either he decided to fuck a couple of gringos out of 6 dollars at 1 in the morning, or he was planning an assault.¨If it had been just me, it would have been pretty easy for him to take everything.

We left our hotel early this morning.

It´s a good thing that the average Guatemalan is 5´5, which makes Griff look like a gringo giant. Besides, we were packing the beer bottles of safety and the bamboo sticks of annoyance. I suspect that we think this is funny only because we´re sleep deprived and tripping on adrenalin. And, in the absence of any concrete action we can take, laughing seems to be the only option.

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For the record

7.20.2007

Griff logged in as me on Flkr and made a bunch of comments.

I would not, in fact, tap that.

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Damn you flkr!

7.19.2007

Flkr will only show your 200 most recent pictures so Griff is signing up for an account, too.

Here´s the link: http://www.flickr.com/photos/10249946@N02/

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Hey, this is me

7.18.2007


In Venezuala. On my way to the tallest waterfall in the world.
Oh, and we have photos uploaded for real now. Check out the flickr link in the side bar.
I´m introducing a number of series for these photos,
Pale is the new tan
Speedos are so in this year
Maybe shouldn´t be wearing a thong
In which shitty companies take over the world
Oops I did it again--exporting the Shrek 3´s of America
Girls Griff may or may not be sleeping with
Beware of Anti-Social Dogs
Drunken tour guides
Pale is no longer the new tan, red is
Oh, photos are organized by city but totally out of order otherwise.

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Girls! Girls! Girls!

7.14.2007

We meet a half-American, half-German man in Venezuala. He tells us that he sells pictures to National Geographic for a living, but as his picutres are not that great, I suspect the file entitled GIRLS!GIRLS!GIRLS! is how he really makes his money.

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Stupid Americans

Griff and I were stupid Americans. We sat in a Carrefour (the Brazilian equivalent of Walmart but a bit more like a mall). We ate pizza and snickers bars.

It was heaven.

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May be getting Malaria

I can count 50 bites so far. Griff has yet to get one. (Fortunately he´s having gastrointestinal distress.) Anyhow, I´m the one using deet. Deet is so strong that if you are wearing it and you touch a water bottle, the color will come off and stick to you. That doesn´t sound healthy. I´ve decided to stop using it and take my chances with the demon bugs of death.

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Jungle Tour part two

That night we had a little confrontation. This isn´t ok, we told him. Its nothing like what we were promised and we may need to find you an AA program. Denial is the first sign. Actually, we asked for an additional three hours to make up for the one we had lost while he was sleeping. Our guide was very accommodating and agreed to this. When I mentioned that we had taken pictures of him passed out in the boat and sleeping in the lodge, we scored an extra night for free.

We awoke the next morning at 5 to see the sunrise and go bird watching. We several different species, the names of which I have forgotten. Griff says that our guide just called everything a hawk. Still, they were all singing and it was great to hear the cacophonous chorus.

We then came back for a quick breakfast-the best meal we had had so far. (The squeaky wheel gets a bit of papaya.)

We got into the boat and headed to the jungle. On the way there Elso, our guide, spotted some dolphins and told us that this was our chances to swim with them. ¨Jump in the water and they´ll come closer.¨ This worked really well, and we jumped in and out of the water, each time spotting more pink and grey river dolphins. It worked great, that is, until one of them tried to attack us. As it turns out, the reason more of them come over when you jump in the water is because they are trying to defend their territory. Near death experiences and all (really) it was still great.

After that we went on a four hour jungle trek. This was undoubtedly the best part of the trip so far. At one point, we came across a giant ant colony on the side of a tree. Our guide told me to stick my fist in it. (I think he had it out for me.) ¨Don´t worry,¨he said. ¨They bite.¨ So I stuck my fist in and soon ants were all over it.
¨Shake them off! Shake them off!¨Griff yelled.
I did and the little fuckers began biting me. Not that many, though. Our guide told us that the indigenous people would do this same thing and the oil left from the crushed ants acted as a natural mosquito repellent. Perhaps I will crush swarms of mosquitoes on myself as an ant repellent. In the meantime, a few ants had wandered up my pants. (insert joke here) This left me slapping my nether regions in front of two male guides and my little brother.

Our guide cut off bits of bark from various trees with his machete and had us smell them. Several of them were used as natural medicines. They all seem to cure gastrointestinal distress probably because of the high fiber content (Griff´s joke). We saw the sap of a rubber tree, which, when touched immediately becomes solid. You can roll it off your skin so that it looks like the leftovers from those erasers in elementary school.

Later, our guide told us to close our eyes and open our mouths. He then fed me a maggot (only me, mind you). It tasted sweet, like coconut milk. I´m thinking of opening up a restaurant.

We did not get to see most of the things we were told we would see, but it was great to trek through the jungle. At one point, our guide let us us the machetes to chop out a path.

Our guide made a hat out of palm leaves. Griff and I took turns looking ridiculous. We swung on vines, and at one point saw a branch that sort of resembled a sloth fall to the ground. And we did see two legs of a tarantula.

As we were walking along, I felt a sharp sting on my chest. Soon they were all over. I started yelling, slapping myself, and running. In the end, I was stung at least 12 times by jungle wasps, cabo. Griff, I might add, was not stung once. Our guide took the flat off his machete and pressed it over the stings, which helped with the pain. I must be a sadist because I found the whole situation hilarious.

It wasn´t until later that Griff told me that we were really lost. Our guide tried to pass it off saying, ¨Look at these tracks. A wild pig must have passed here just minutes before.¨And I was all excited thinking, ¨Damn it, we just barely missed that pig.¨But Griff speaks Portuguese so he understood when the guides were talking to one another. Something like: ¨Do you know where we are?¨ ¨No idea. You?¨

On the boat ride back, I asked our guide if I could swim again. Apparently that whole near death dolphin experience had not cured me. He said it was fine. I jumped into the water and they began to drive away from me. Which is really reassuring when there are pirhanas and attack dolphins in the water. When I caught up to them I said, ¨I have to do something.¨
¨You have to pee?¨Our guide asked.
¨Well, I need all of you to turn around so that I can go skinny dipping in the Amazon.¨ The whole turning around thing didn´t fully translate for our guides, but I got to do a few flips in the water naked. As it turns out, its really hard to get dressed and undressed in the water. Please don´t let me drop my shorts.

We had been offered another night for free (except lodging which was 25$ for the both of us). We were told that we would visit an indigenous family and go harpoon fishing that night. This amounted to one of our guides saying to his uncle, ¨Hey, some Americans are really pissed at us. Can we bring them over and show them your house?¨Still, it was great to see how people live there. We talked with them a bit and drank some really strong alcohol. Later, we got to play soccer with them. Griff has gotten quite good as he practiced a lot in Jao Pesoa. I tried to avoid being killed.

After dinner, Griff invited us to their party, but none of the girls showed up. He described it this way, ¨There are six sexually frustrated guys here and one female. And she´s my sister.¨So the party ended fairly quickly.

The next morning we took a boat, a bus, and a taxi back to Manaus. All and all a great trip even if it was nothing like what we were told we would do. If you know anyone going to the Amazon, tell them to avoid Amazon Riders.

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Jungle Tour

7.11.2007

"Your back looks like trash worms," our guide told me as we took a speed boat back to the lodge.
"What?"
He spoke louder, "You´re back, it looks like trash worm."
"Oh, um, yeah. Ok."
He thought a minute, "I think you say shrimp. Your back is red like a shrimp."


Our guide had picked us up that morning incredibly hungover. His bleary eyes were bloodshot-red like trash worms. When we went on our first nature tour, he passed out in the back of the boat, sleeping so heavily that branches cut his face leaving mud and bark there. So instead of being told about Amazon wildlife, we watched the guy in the front of the boat fish with a harpoon. Which sounds exciting, except that the harpoon resembled a salad fork attached to a very long pole. And the fish he was bringing in were really small. Our guide had really just brought him along so that he could sleep.



We then returned to the lodge, where we supposed to have a quick lunch followed by fishing for pirhannas and swimming with river dolphins. Our guide proceeded to sleep. For three hours. Griff and I both tried to wake him, at one point shaking him lightly. Finally, two women from the lodge came in and woke him up.

At which point we went fishing for pirhanas. I feel that if I spell pirhanas differently each time I write it, I will eventually stumble upon the correct spelling. On the way out, our guide spotted a squirrel monkey. Squirrel monkeys are roughly the size of, you guessed it, but have human looking faces. Their ears look almost the same as ours. Our guide, Elso, began to shake the bamboo so that the monkey had to jump somewhere else. They kept shaking its every landing point so that the monkey had to leap of the tall thin trees. At one point, the monkey fell and and our driver jumped into the water chasing it. He brought back to our boat a soaked two month old squirrel monkey. The entire ride the little guy kept calling out for his mother. He even jumped out of the boat while we were fishing for pirhanas, which, in case you were wondering, is a pretty bad idea. I felt pretty bad for him.

Did I mention that the battery on our camera died?

It turns out that pirhanas only attack humans if you are bleeding. Otherwise, there is a pretty low rish of getting torn to shreds in tiny little bites. Griff caught one (even though the guy who sold us the package promised that we would catch several). It was pretty small, proving, once again, that size doesn´t matter. The motion of the ocean or what have you. Anyhow, the pirhana had really vicious looking teeth and a series underbite. I suggested braces. We did not get to fish for long. I did not mention that if we might have gotten to fish for longer if, say, our guide had not slept for three hours. We then left to swim with the dolphins.

As it turns out, it was too late to swim with the dolphins. Instead, we watched a beautiful sunset from the boat. In a nearby tree, a huge flock of egrets jockeyed for position.

What made matters worse was that there was another family at the lodge . (When I say lodge think concrete floors, really thin mattresses and mosquito nets with holes in them.) Anyhow, this family was with a different company. They kept talking about how they had caught several pirhanas (which they got to eat for dinner), had seen dolphins 5 feet away, and had all gotten to hold a caima (an alligator looking thing).

That night we took the boat out so that we too could hold a caima. They have both a vagina and a penis, and are able to mate with themselves. But its just not as much fun that way.

*Incidentally, this caima thing may be totally false, as we are finding a growing number of things our guide told us are complete bs.

Have to go, will post more details of our jungle trip later. :)

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Linda

He wrote on his hand, "Linda, voce," and pointed at me. We had met that morning and introduced ourselves: Adelaide, Marcos. But my name is hard for a lot of people here, so when he pointed at his hand insistently, "Linda, you," I figured, sure, what the hell, yeah, I´m Linda, and nodded. He smiled and walked away.

Later I told Griff, "Someone thought my name was Linda."

He grinned and told me, "Adelaide, linda is the word for beautiful."

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Trip on the boat: part two

7.05.2007


Day three: A big man with the Brazilian form of machismo tries to sit with me at dinner, but my neighbor (the one who tried to teach me Portuguese cuss words), slips in so that he has to eat somewhere else. We eat in shifts on a long table. This translates into: rush to get a seat so that there is still a good selection of food. Lunch and dinner are usually rice, noodles, and beans, sometimes there is meat.

Maria is 39. I discover this after a good bit of talking, repeating, and hand gestures. Later I will pretend to be trapped in a glass box with similar communicative efficiency. Her hair is a deep chocolate and forms a fuzzy wave behind her. She has a son, filho, and a daughter--a word I do not know, but as it is not filho I'm betting on a daughter or a hermaphrodite.

*Actually, Griff talked to her after I wrote this originally and found out that she has 4 children, all daughters. So much for smoke signals. At least I got her age right.

"Voce e bonita," she tells me. I have a rash on my face that will not go away, I have not showered in two days, and I am covered in poison death spray. Not exactly bonita. Griff says its the blue eyes. He's a fucking movie star here, and I mean fucking literally.

The music upstairs is deafening. Griff says its quieter than usual. They are being considerate because there are families below.

The Lord has sent his judgement on me in a plague of mosquitoes. I asked Edinelza if mosquitoes would be a problem. Nao, she told me. I can count six bites since then. That means at least 20 bites in total in Brazil. Griff has not been bit once. So when even the Brazilians started slapping their arms and legs, I immediately applied a fresh layer of poison death spray to my body, even as mosquitoes were landing on me. Griff helped me put up my mosquito net. I am the only one with this up. Stupid American. I suspect I will sleep my most peaceful night on the trip thus far. I suspect this I suspect this net development will lead to a large number of Brazilians getting bit, as the mosquitoes will no longer have my gringo blood to feast on. I hope Griff gets bitten. Its only fair. My one fear is that mosquitoes will get stuck in side my net and suck my blood until they are bloated and unable to fly.

I have given up all fear of looking stupid, as I accomplished this task early in the trip.

Day four: We awoke this morning to screaming. The boat had tipped so far to one side that a pirhana flopped in. On the other side, several passengers were strapping on life vests. Griff and I, being a bit slow on the uptake, awoke with a "Huh? What?" the boat was tilted slteeply to one side, but soon righted itself. I asked Edinelza why she was so scared. She told me that she can't swim. That seems to be the case for several people.

There are pink dolphins along this section of the river (really). Griff has already spotted two.

We pass small thatch houses on stilts. The children paddle out to us on dugout canoes so that they can play in the waves. Sometimes the captain lets them attach their canoes to the side of the boat so that they can do the equivalent of skiing.

Day five: More of the same. I've heard that the way people get veal is by feeding the calves high carbohydrate food and and not allowing them to move. I'm begining to thin that this boat actually has another purpose. They are fattening us up for the kill. I, for one, think I would be quite juicy meat.

Day six: Earlier this week, a man tried to trick Griff into saying sexual things. In return, Griff taught him that giving the bird is a cool American thing. He is most likely going to hell.

Anyhow, whenever we saw this man, he would give us the bird. I sat with him and his friends tonight and he did it again. Fortunately, I remedied the situation. He has been giving me the eye all week, and tonight he asked me to be his third wive. That's three consecuative wives, not all at the same time. I didn't feel to keen on that idea.

Maria, a woman who is interested in Griff, has reached stalkerish proportions. I told him to just sleep her so that she will leave us alone. She gets super jealous when he talks to other women.

We actually really like the people on the boat, although those two paragraphs imply otherwise. I spent most of the day with a little girl name Lecitietcia. We took pictures of each other and then she ran around board taking pictures of everybody else. We draw pictures in my notebook and play tic tac toe. I seem to have lost my knack for the game. She teaches me how to pronounce a number of Portuguese phrases. I teach her a few English ones and her pronunciation is always perfect. Its great to be young, eh?

Our boat arrived 11 hours late (at 5 in the morning) because of engine trouble. Griff and I were just about ready to brave the pirhannas and swim to Manaus.

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Boat ride day 1 and 2




Day one: We are onboard a beat that is taking us from Belem to Manaus via the Amazon River. Our boat has three levels, all open. On the bottom level are more onions than I ever cared to see (packed all of the way to the ceiling.) And two motorcycles hanging between rows. Thankfully, the onions don't smell.

On the second layer of the boat are hammocks stretched four overlaping rows across the width of the boat and maybe thirty rows along the width of the boat. Griff estimates that there are over one hundred people on board.

Most of the people on board are using it for transportation and not tourism. The city we are headed towards, Manaus, is accesible from the south only by boat or plane, which is saying something because its on the very tippy top of Brazil.

We are the only Americans on board. My neighbor to the left is a short 35 year old woman with a bowl cut. Edinelza. She tries to teach me Portuguese cuss words. I pull out my phrase book and she and all the women fall into hysterics and my butchered attempt to speak their language. Today Griff taught me the phrase "Porque voce esta hindu?" (probally misspelled) Which means "What are you laughing about?" They think this is great, and through a series of smoke signals and hand gestures, I begin to understand the jokes. Mostly I am saying things that are totally incomprehisable or accidentally dirty. I prefer the latter. At least I'm saying something.

I sit in my hammock practicing the phrases they have helped me to learn. It must look hilarious to them, the equivalent of someone talking to themselves and saying "Nice to heat you. Niicee to mmmeet you. Nice to meet you? Nice to meet you."

Everyone is totally charmed when Griff speaks to them in Portuguese. He's gotten very good and chats with the pregnant woman to his left. She is travelling with her son to her sisters wedding.


Day two: I awoke this morning to a loud shrill whistle alerting everyone that breakfast is about to be served. I didn't have to speak Portuguese to know what most of the people were yelling in response. Something like: "Alright already. We're up. Enough with the whistle!"

Breakfast is one hot dog bun looking bread. Griff and I have discovered why passage is so cheap. I will probally lose some weight on this trip and all of my teeth, from scurvy. Actually, fruit is really cheap and sweeter than in the US. Everytime we stop somewhere, vendors come on selling anything from fake flowers in a wooden vase to fried cheese (a specialty here.) They also sell asiae a fruit that grows only in the Amazon and is crazy full of antioxidents. Sometimes they sell Mentos and fish dinners, both of which are very popular. The fresh maker and the not so fresh maker. Griff and I bought apples and oranges before we left and two cans of Pringles. Stupid Americans.

We shared our chips with our neighbors. The little boy grabbed a large stack. His mother chided him, but he ran to his cousin and gave her half. I think he's using them as barter. Yesterday she had some ice cream that she would not share with him.

Griff: Today we had one hot dog bun for breakfast. Tomorrow we will have to share. After that, it is on to the small children. Why the small children and not a big fat man? Tender meat.


This is all I have time to write right now. Missing you all. I apologize for spelling errors. Can't spell check here, unless you are writing in Portuguese.

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Call me Ishmael

Or something like that. Griff and I wrote this on a 36 hour bus ride a week ago. The bus had a little cold problem and well, smelled. We got a little weird.

Dear Loved Ones-
It is the seventeenth hour of our journey, and I do not know how much longer I will be able to write you. The hysteria accompanying hypothermia has set, and in the row in front of me the wind howls and the snow blows. Outside, the air is hot and the sun is shining. So close to paradise. Alas, I may freeze in this 18 wheeled icy tomb. Damn you cruel fate!

Sir Griff and I have commenced a 36 hour quest to Belem from Salvador. We intend to explore the Amazon's great beauty at whatever the cost. For shame, we may have to do this minus a few fingers and toes.

One would think that if all of the tour guide books warn against the cold on the bus, and if all of the Brazilians brought heavy blankets, that someone would just turn the blasted air conditioner down. Griff and I have launched a covert mission to do this very thing at our next stop. The stakes are high. We may get thrown off the bus. Worse yet, they may make us strip naked and stand in this barren wasteland.

It is winter here, most of the Brazilians I have talked to find the weather outside cold, so there is no way they are comfortable in here. I am now wearing a dress, a pair of Griffin's pants, one of my shirts and one of his shirts. I resemble a rap star without the bling. Still, I had to curl into a ball to sleep tonight. Soon we will burning our passports to keep warm.

I am losing all touch with reality. Hour by hour it erodes. Inside my head echo the words: "The wheels on the bus go round and round, round and round, round and round." Good God woman! Get a hold of yourself!

Griffin is a little jumpy still. The near death experience has not treated him well. I am afraid he will never be the same. The noxious gasses seem to be getting to him.

We may not have rationed our food well. "For what, Sam?" "For the trip home, Mr. Frodo." "Sam, there will not be a trip home."

There are 18 hours left in our journey. It seems we shall never get there mostly because there are speed bumps in the middle of nowhere and our bus stops every 15 minutes. Not to do anything, mind you. It just pulls of the road, sits there, and then begins to drive again.

Griff and I have started talking to ourselves and speaking in British accents. We laugh at the slightest provocation. For example, we found this post very funny.

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